The proprietor of The Spotted Pig classes up the Ace Hotel with the Breslin, a gastropub that was one of the most anticipated restaurant openings of 2009. The menu is unabashedly British, and the decor—Sam Sifton of the Times calls it "Hogwarts for hipsters," a good play on words for a restaurant so in love with pig—is the kind of faux-worn interior that seems to have become de rigeur for upscale restaurants over the years. Like most British gastropubs, this one is going to give your system a good working-over as the dishes, which range from things like smoked pork belly to Caesar salad, seem designed to slowly work diners into severe arteriosclerosis. The menu, like the interior of the restaurant, is inviting and delicious, but the spectre of the fat content looms behind the walls of each dish like a culinary black mold. However, as it is with the most deadly things, the Breslin's beguiling, Medusa-like hypnotic effect is nigh irresistible, a narcotic for the nose, tongue, and eyes. The Breslin also handles room service for its landlord and host, the Ace Hotel.